On Mullingar Hill

The photographs in this gallery appear in order in which their subjects are discussed in On Mullingar Hill; the first few photographs provide some contexts for Landour Bazaar.  

On Mullingar Hill: Memory, Movement, and Belonging in a Himalayan Hill Station (Primus Books, 2025) tells the oral histories and personal narratives of twenty-three shopkeepers/residents in Landour Bazaar, Mussoorie, whose families have helped to create the culture and heritage of the Himalayan hill station. The book expands who “counts, beyond colonial actors, in the histories of India’s hill stations. The shopkeepers’ families, some of whose fathers Flueckiger knew growing up in Landour and attending Woodstock School, have migrated from across northern South Asia, and others continue to come from Garhwali mountain villages for economic opportunities. However, many of their descendants are now moving off the mountain for more opportunities; as a popular proverb observes, “Pahar ka pani pahar ki javanithe waters of the mountain, the youth of the mountains”, both go downhill. The continual movement by a diverse population in and out of the bazaar has created a unique local cosmopolitanism. Each shopkeeper’s narrative offers perspectives on agency, identity, home, and belonging—issues relevant beyond the hill station. Flueckiger concludes that belonging in a place where, as one shopkeeper asserted, “no one is from”, is continually re-created through rituals, processions, and everyday interactions; “home” is multiple, gendered, and context-specific; and movement itself is part of Mussoorie’s heritage (See  “From Where They Came” for a map of sites from which bazaar dwellers’ ancestors or they themselves came to Landour Bazaar.)

Click on any image to expand and see the caption for that image.

Chapter 1:Anjani Bijalwan: Northern Stores

Chapter 2: Final Home, Creating Home: Ancestral Stones and Other Resting Sites

Chapter 3: Mullingar's Tea Shops: Ranveer Singh Rana and Sunil Panwar

Chapter 4: Valmiki Community: Ratan Lal, Munda Lal, Dinesh and Nitu

Chapter 5: Processions through the Bazaar: Performing Distinction, Claiming Space, Creating Belonging

Chapter 6: Bina Panwar: A Woman's Multiple Homes
(Maika and Sasural)

Chapter 7: Dhanender and Anita Pundeer: Himalayan Haat

Chapter 8: Mohammad Tahir and Gulam Nabi Bakers; Chapter 9: Pheri: Networking Hillside Homes

Chapter 10: Ayub Sabri: Sabri Bought & Sold

Chapter 11: Sonu Bhatia and Ranveer: Sonu Showmaker

Chapter 12: Mohammad Kaleem Faiz and Saira Bano: Faiz Tailor and Faiz Vintage Collection

Chapter 13: Domestic Festivals Creating Social Networks:
Kanya Puja and Karva Chauth

Chapter 14: Mohammad Yousuf Ansari: Guide to the Bazaar

Chapter 15: Jaswinder Singh: Anand Khadya Bhandar

Chapter 16: Mohammad Inam and Mohammad Islam: Inam Tailors

Chapter 17: Naveen Panwar: Jeweller

Chapter 18: Ashwani Mittal: Omi Sweet Shop

Chapter 19: Pankaj Agarwal: Hapur Walon kee Dukaan

Chapter 20: Anand Rastogi: Bharat Vastra Bhandar

Chapter 21: Vikram Verma: Vikram Verma Jewellers

Chapter 22: Rishab Jain: Umbrella Specialist

Chapter 23: Doma Chomu: Tibetan Arts Entrepreneur

Chapter 24: Rajender Singh Rawat and Rajshree: Golden Restaurant and Golden Knitwears

Chapter 25: Naresh Aggarwal: Ram Chander & Brothers General Store

Chapter 26: Vinod Kumar and Surbhi Agarwal: Vinod's Art & Antiquities and Mussoorie Heritage